omen have been dying their hair for hundreds of years, with references from as far back as Roman times. Nowadays it is not just the female of the species who indulge; colour therapy is also popular with men - and not just for covering greys. A good head of colour can lift your complexion as well as your mood, especially coming into the winter months. But is all this colouring actually good for our hair, and indeed our health?

America’s Environmental Working Group advises the avoidance of ammonia and peroxide, two key ingredients in many mainstream permanent hair dyes. Ammonia is used to lift the hair cuticle allowing the dye to penetrate, but in doing so can cause damage, leaving hair weak and dry with no shine. As well as emitting fumes that sting your eyes it is also a skin irritant – not good for you or your hairdresser! Hydrogen Peroxide is used to lighten hair but again can be damaging, and rough porous hair prone to split ends is not a good look.

Another recommendation from the group is to give p-phenylenediamine (PPD) a wide berth. This is another common ingredient in hair colourants, but it can cause allergic reactions. Skin irritation due to direct contact with hair dye can spread to the forehead, eyelids, ears and neck, and can be very severe – tragically, there have even been cases of death due to anaphylactic shock. Someone can use the same dye for years and then, for no particular reason, react badly to it. Once triggered, this sensitivity can continue to cause problems in the future, with sufferers reacting to other things, even chemicals such as black dye in clothes. This potential risk stresses the importance of a skin sensitivity test, which should be performed 48hrs before any colour treatment at home or in the salon. In a recent survey by Naturtint, it was found that almost 80% of salons asked were prepared to colour hair without doing a test on the client, which is a worrying result with potentially serious consequences.

PPD also has suggested links to some cancers, including bladder cancer, non- Hodgkin’s lymphoma and leukaemia. Various studies have been carried out to assess the possible dangers from long-term use of permanent dye (20 years or more) and also to assess the risk to hairdressers, who have continued exposure to dyes. The findings remain inconclusive. However in 2006 the European Commission banned 22 chemicals found in these dyes due to doubts about their safety. PPD is still found in the majority of permanent and semi-permanent hair colourants on the market today, as it is the component that makes them permanent and, in general, the darker the dye, the more PPD there is. The health risk is considered low but the jury is still out and finding an alternative is proving to be a tricky task. We must also think about the other undesirables on the ingredients list, such as parabens and resorcinol, which can cause irritation amongst other health issues.

But what if we are not ready to go au naturel? I for one am not prepared to let grey win the day. So what are the alternatives? Hair colourants without such harsh chemicals are being formulated, and manufacturers claim the results are getting better and better. I visited one West London salon to find out…

Since last year, Hair Organics in Notting Hill has been offering the full salon treatment minus the chemical overload with their botanic and mineral colour choices. Their Fruitoxy Permanent Colourant System replaces ammonia with an alkali from coconut fatty acids, and traditional harsh peroxide with a softer product derived from fruit oils that will actually benefit your hair. Even hair that has been over-processed by traditional colourants will benefit and is left in a better condition than before, claims Creative Director Terry Wilson. Or try the semi-permanent Mineral Water Colour, created by Daniel Field, who has been leading the way in organic and mineral hair colour since 1987. With 46 colours to choose from you can change your look as often as you like, minus the worry of damaging your hair or your health.

If you are watching the pennies or just like the comfort of your own home, be wary of the bigger brands offering ammoniafree home-kits. While “ammonia-free” is definitely a good thing, the rest of the ingredients can still cause havoc. Less chemical-laden dyes are available for use at home, giving you a safer and greener experience.

Tints of Nature from Herb UK are free from ammonia, resorcinol and parabens, with pharmaceutical grade peroxide used rather than the usual chemical grade, which is much kinder on the hair. PPD is used but in the lowest possible amount (an average of 0.6% across the range) and organic plant extracts have been added to nourish your locks (£8.99, www.tintsofnature.com).

Daniel Field brings his salon knowledge to your home with the Natural Colours range, all free from felons and with minimal PPD. These colourants are completely odourless, with no fumes. Refill kits are also available so even kinder on your pocket! (£6.84 for 5gm, refills £5.38 www.danielfield.com).

For those who wish to avoid PPD altogether, try Palette by Nature, which is soon to arrive in the UK. The range has 15 colours that will last up to 20 washes (www.avea.co.uk). Or try Naturtint’s Reflex Colour, a semi-permanent dye which gives you great colour for a month along with a vitamin boost (£10.99 for 135ml, www.naturesdream.co.uk).

So you see you can have it all – whether you want to be a colour chameleon or simply cover a little grey, you can avoid unnecessary damage to your tresses and possibly your health by making smart decisions in the products you use. Take a stand against these unsavoury ingredients and your hair will show its appreciation by shining and looking great the whole winter through.